Wall-mounted sinks have a great, modern look and make a small bathroom, especially a guest bathroom, seem less cluttered and more spacious. Fortunately, mounting a wall sink is a doable project for most DIYers.
Prep the Wall
Once you’ve safely removed the bathroom vanity, if there is one, it’s time to prep the wall for your sleek new sink.
Start by measuring the size of your new sink and determining the ideal mounting height (usually about 30 inches from the floor, but this may vary depending on your sink or preference). That should give you an estimate of the area you’ll need to support.
Carefully cut a section of the drywall away and nail in blocking–either 2x6s or 2x8s–between the wall studs. If you have a tile wall or other wall covering, you’ll have to be very cautious to only remove tile that won’t show when your sink is in place. Replace and repair your drywall before beginning the sink installation.
Install the Sink
- If your sink contains an assembly plate, you can use it for a template to drill your guide holes. Otherwise, use the sink itself to determine where to drill.
- Drill your guide holes for the train screws that should be included in the wall assembly sink. Make sure you use a stone drill as you drill through the tile.
- Prepare the water, drain and pop-up assemblies on the sink.
Place the tap in the sink and attach with safety nuts.
- Wrap a thin line with the plumber’s spatula under the edge of the drain unit’s case, then insert it into the drain hole and press to seal it off. Install the seal and the base on the bottom. Position the opening at the drain at the back of the sink. You can install your pop-up assembly there. Tighten the fuse nut-you may need to hold the case so it doesn’t rotate with the expiration-and remove the putty of another plumber from the case.
- Push your sink plugs through the case into position. Put your swivel rod in the opening at the drain piece and guide the rod through the end of the rinsing pot. The swivel rod contains a plastic ball that fits into the opening and serves as a base disc. Attach a mother upstairs to fix her. Your swivel bar should still be able to move up and down.
- Insert your lift rod through the tap of the sink so it runs down next to the swivel rod. Use the spring clamp in your kit to connect the swivel rod and lift bar. The lift rod has several holes so you can put them in the right position to operate the pop-up assembly. Test the assembly by pressing the lift rod down and making sure the drain valve is actually ramped up.
- Install the assembly plate or sink by attaching it to your block with pull screws. Screw in the first screw and make sure your sink is standing straight before using the other screws. If you’re using an assembly plate, attach your sink to the plate.
- Install the P trap and the drain arm at your existing drain. Connect your flexible hot and cold water feed tubes from the bottom of the tap to the cordon valves in the wall. The hoses are connected to either compression nuts or extended connectors-tighten them with a wrench clockwise. Turn the handle on your cordon valves counter-clockwise and then open the tap to flush out the lines. Make sure there are no leaks in the assembly at any point and that nothing needs to be tightened.
- Your flushing kit may contain a cladding part for the plumbing pipes. You can attach this piece with pull screws after testing the pipelines and being sure there are no leaks.
If you encounter problems installing your sink, contact a certified, professional plumber.